Located in the heart of Abeokuta, Ogun state, Nigeria, Olumo rock is an iconic landmark which  is not just a mountain but it was a home for the Egba people during the inter-tribal wars of the 19th century. Egba is an ethnic group and a subgroup of the Yorubas, the Egbas are majorly from the central part of Ogun state, Nigeria. The Egba people are known for their farming, hunting, wood carving and weaving skills. Olumo rock has three distinct parts, and each part tells the stories of the Egba tribe.

Lisabi Garden: A Tribute to Bravery

From the foot of the rock through the staircase, it takes 120 steps to get to Lisabi garden. The Lisabi garden was named after the legendary warrior Lisabi Agbongbo Akala. Lisabi Agbongbo Akala fought and conquered various wars for the Egbas, which were the Kiriji war, Adubi war, Kenke war and Dahomey war. The garden features three majestic trees: The Flamboyant tree which the Yorubas calls pansheke, it was given that name because every time you shake the dried pods of the tree, it makes a sound-sheke sheke. The other trees are neem tree (dongoyaro) and tree of resilience and doggedness (Igi odan).  The Orisa olumo shrine is situated  within the garden and it’s a sacred place where the annual festival is held to honour the deity Olumo. During the festival only two people are allowed inside the shrine: Alake of EgbaLand (the paramount leader) and the chief priest. A big black cow, chicken, snail, bitter cola and local gin is used during the sacrifice. After which the king prays for the country and he also prays that nobody falls as they climb the rock, while the people outside the shrine will say Ashe (Amen). The Alake of Egba land always announces the date for the sacrifice and on the walls of the shrine, it is boldly written “Olumo Abelowo, Abelomo, Abeloro” which means ask for money, children and wealth. Devotees of the deity Olumo can offer prayers outside the shrine to ak for blessing and guidance.

The Cave: A Refuge for the Egbas

Outside the cave of olumo rock is the grave of chief Sonni Osi Itoko . Chief Soni was the Osi of Itoko, the Osi sits at the left-hand side of the king. His house is at Olumo and according to the tradition of the Yorubas, every chief must be buried at the back or in front of their home and that was why Chief soni was buried there. The cave, discovered by Adagba, a brave farmer and a hunter, played a vital role in the Egba people’s survival. The Egba people were seeking independence from Old Oyo’s oppression and so Adagba invited the people of Egba to hide in the cave. During the war, the people of Egba made the cave their home, they built five rooms which has now reduced to one, and used the holes inside the cave to grind pepper, pound yam and prepare other meals. As the Egbas sought refuge in the cave, another war broke out between the Dahomeys now the Republic of Benin and the people of Egba. From 1830 to 1833, the rock provided shelter and protection from the ravages of the war.

After the war ended the Egbas consulted Ifa (the diety of the Yorubas) and inquired if they should remain there or return to where they originally came from. The oracle told them to remain there, so the Egbas called the place Oluwafiolumo or Olufimo which means this is where God ended the struggles and worries of their lives, it was later shortened to Olumo. Olu means God and Mo-means mould, oluwa lo mo- It is god that molded the rock for the people of Egba. That is how the name Olumo rock was gotten. When the Egbas finally came out of hiding, people wandered where they ran to during the war and asked them “Eyin Egba nibo le sasi nigba ogun”  and they answered “A sasi Abe Okuta”. These is how the capital name of ogun state Abeokuta was derived; Abeokuta means under the rock which is where the Egba sought refuge.

The Peak: A Scenic View of Abeokuta

The ancient route leads to the peak of olumo rock. The ancient route has the sculptures of Egba warriors, adorned with Owo Eyo (coweries).  The standing heads of the warriors depicted those who survived the war, while the buried heads represented those who died.

The peak of the rock offers breath taking view of Abeokuta’s beautiful landscape, while an ancient Iroko tree, over 250 years  old, continues to thrive.

The Egba people have an anthem which tells a story about their time under the rock and how this experience will never be forgotten.

Lori oke o’un petele

Ibe l’agbe bi mi si o

Ibe la gbe to mi d’agba oo

Ile ominira

Chorus : maa yo o, maa yo, maa yoo l’ori Olumo

maa yo o, maa yo, maa yoo l’ori Olumo

Abeokuta ilu Egba

N ko ni gbagba e re

N o ogbe o l’eke okan mi

Bii ilu odo oya

Emi o fi Abeokuta sogo

N o oduro l’ori Olumo

Maayo l’oruko Egba oo

Emi omoo Lisabi

E e

Chorus : maa yo o, maa yo, maa yoo l’ori Olumo

maa yo o, maa yo, maa yoo l’ori Olumo

Emi o mayo l’ori Olumo

Emi o s’ogoo yi l’okan mi

Wipe ilu olokiki o

L’awa Egba n gbe

Chorus : maa yo o, maa yo, maa yoo l’ori Olumo

maa yo o, maa yo, maa yoo l’ori Olumo

The chorus of this anthem means "I will rejoice on top of Olumo". In Abeokuta there are four kings; The Alake of Egbaland, Osile of Oke Ona, Agura of Gbagura and Olowu of Owu. Olumo rock is a symbol of the Egba people’s unwavering resilience and determination. It also serves as a reminder of the importance of cultural heritage and the unbreakable spirit of the Egba people.

REFERENCE

Wikipedia: Egba People

Oral accounts from tour guides Kazim and Oluwakemi

Picture credit: Wikipedia

Picture credit: WAKA-ABOUT

Picture credit: Goggle Map Photos